The Three Stages of Professional Gun Dog Training
Professional gun dog training takes time and patience. It also takes commit to a proven program, consistent handling, and a dog with a love of the game. Only when a dog masters one stage is it appropriate to move on and increase the difficulty, physical conditioning and command structure. So, what are the three stages of gun dog training and how do they benefit dog and hunter?
- Rookie training.This is the introductory stage for the dog that has had little or no exposure to any prior gun dog training. Puppies should be at least 16 weeks old before being enrolled in this stage. The dog learns to point and chase. They are exposed to birds, guns and hunting grounds. Rookie training is all about establishing a good foundation. Prey drive and basic field commands (here) are the primary focus. The training program at Valhalla is all about developing a confident dog but don’t expect a tremendous amount of discipline in this stage.
- Seasoned training.Once your dog behaves with confidence in the field and has mastered the basic command, it is time to move up to the second training stage. Terming it the seasoned stage, this level is open to dogs that are at least six months of age. At this level, there is more differentiating between the training received by pointing and flushing dogs. Pointing dogs learn the “whoa” command while flushing dogs train to sit by whistle command. Dogs must learn to control their impulses to chase game birds by pointing without engaging and by letting other dogs take the lead when instructed. The rate at which dogs complete this stage varies. On average this is a 6-8 week program that we recommend be completed 100% and not broken into multiple visits. This is also the stage in training where you will see a more disciplined dog that is ready to go to the field.
- Trained Retrieve.This intense 8-10 week program is the finishing touch for any bird dog. There is a misconception that just because the dog likes fetching this program isn’t necessary. The truth is, this program is all about the respect of the command and respect of the handler and fetching is just the by product. Our Valhalla guarantee is that every dog leaves the program happy and with their tail wagging. Valhalla trainers compare a dog that has gone through this program to driving a car with power steering. Sure, you can drive a car without but it’s no fun.
Contact us today for more information on the importance of the three-staged training approach. Moreover, find out what a dog with professional gun dog training under its belt will offer to you, the hunter, while in the field.
What Should You Expect from Quality Gun Dog Training Programs?
Gun dog training programs are key components when it comes to training a puppy or older dog in the fine art of quail hunting or the perfect handling of other game birds that you harvest. Yet where can you find the right type of help? While plenty of kennels might hang out shingles that claim to assist with gun dog training programs, there are some features that are found only with high-quality facilities and expert trainers. Do you know what they are?
- An introductory phase. Contrary to popular believe, your pointer puppy will not take to retrieving pheasants like butter to a biscuit. Instead, the noise of the hunt, the shots of the guns and the dogs that accompany other hunters are major distractions – even for a puppy that comes from a long bloodline of established gun dogs. A quality training program understands that it takes your puppy a little time to get used to the commotion as well as to the training collars and other hardware. We allow it to sniff things out and investigate to increase prey drive.
- Owner perspective. Particularly if you are a newcomer to the sport yourself, you need a bit of a reality check. The romanticized images of the lone hunter with the dog carrying a perfectly presented duck during a dusk still shot are not really the reality. Instead, become familiar with the training levels other hunters have reached, see what dogs in your puppy’s age group are accomplishing and find out how other owners train their dogs to enhance their natural instincts. This is why group setting classes are a great way to start the training process.
- Experienced trainers. This is where the kennel with the haphazard shingle is the most different from the well-established gun dog training program. Experts in the discipline are thin on the ground. It is not enough for the training director to be a hobbyist who has partially trained a gun dog and has “seen it done” plenty of times. No, what you want is the professional who has been part of the training scene for years – preferably decades – and is training gun dogs for your type of hunting and not just focusing on passing tests.
Since you are wondering how to train a gun dog, talk to the friendly folks at Valhalla Bijou Hunt Club & Kennels. Contact us today for in-depth information on kennel rates, policies, reservations or just to tour the kennels for a closer look at what makes us different from the rest.
Suzie’s Training
Hey Russ and Stephanie: The lead puppy looks like my dog Sue when she was a pup. By the way, Suzie, as I call her, has been an amazing joy. She is eight years old now and you would think she was three or four. Our season is over now and of course, she loves to hunt. She is the most tame and gentle dog I have ever owned, she is great with the kids (five granddaughters ranging in age 13 to 6). She has been the perfect pet for Pam and me. After a morning of hunting she is pretty tired and stiff. I try to keep her exercised everyday by walking a couple of miles. She doesn’t walk, she runs. The past couple of months I have been a little lax though and we get out three or four times a week. Suzie is amazingly obedient and she anticipates my every move. Sometimes I think she can read my mind. I tell you all this as an expression of my appreciation and in case a potential buyer asks about your breed and training. If you ever need a verbal affirmation about the quality of your dogs, I am happy to talk to anyone.
Range
I’m addressing a question I get asked on a daily basis by clients, “How far should I let my dog range”. This is a reasonable question. First I’ll define range. This is the distance that your dog hunts in front of you. Let’s not over complicate this simple idea. I could break this down to breed specifics, talk about pointers vs. flushers, scenting conditions, wind directions, cover density, ect. For the sake of discussion I’m going to keep this as basic as possible.
I put a great deal of time into training a gun dog. I start each pup in a specific manner and methodically move them through the training process, with the ultimate goal being a finished gun dog. That being said, how far should we let them range? Simple, if I’m hunting and my dog is flushing birds out of gun range, the dog is too far out in front of me. If I’m hunting and the dog is pointing at greater distances, let’s say 200 yard out, sticking birds, holding them rock steady until the flush and shot, and making flawless retrieves, then that is a range the dog is capable of handling.
I think a better question to ask is “how do I control my dog’s range”? Whether you have a 40 yard bootlicker or a 200 yard rocket you still need to maintain control and adapt to conditions. I preach to my clients, that many people have sporting breeds but very few have hunting dogs and the difference is how the puppy is started from day one. So let’s remember the basics. We start off with every pup dragging a check cord. We do this for a reason. Yard work is the foundation for every future gun dog.
If we do not lay the foundation, range will be just one of the many problems you have with your dog. Maybe you need to go back to quartering drills to bring them into check. Maybe some reinforcement with the whoa command or sit to the whistle. All the simple drills we spent endless hours training before we transitioned the dog to the electronic collar need to be revisited. Remember guys, we should be able to drive our dogs through the field like high dollar sports cars. When a command is given we require an immediate response from our dogs or they are instantly corrected. So my general rule is I give my dogs enough rope to hang themselves. If they are doing great and sticking points I let them range. If they need to be brought in a bit we go back to our quartering and whoa work and the basic foundation we laid in the beginning.

